First Look: Dell S2340T Monitor

I’ve been in the market for a new desktop monitor. I’ve been looking at touch-enabled monitors since I figured Windows 8 was an inevitable upgrade for me. I finally decided on the Dell S2340T 23” multi-touch monitor. I based my choice on these reasons:

  • I have a bias toward Dell monitors. I’ve always considered them a good value with a good picture.
  • 10-point multi-touch
  • IPS Panel
  • LED Backlight
  • HDMI port which my existing video card can use.

It has several other features, but they weren’t a deciding factor for me. These include a webcam and speakers along with audio and USB ports. The monitor also support DisplayLink for connecting laptops but I haven’t looked at that at all and have no interest in it.

The resolution is 1920 X 1080 which has become quit common these days since it’s 1080P. I’d prefer a little more vertical height, say 1920 X 1200, but decided this was OK.

The monitor was backordered when I placed the order but arrived early last week, earlier than expected. I didn’t see the point of setting it up with Windows 7, so I waited until I could install Windows 8, which I did over the weekend. A fresh installation of Windows 8 was installed and running when I hooked up the monitor. I hadn’t installed any additional software yet since I wanted to make sure the hardware was solid before doing so.

The setup was slightly more complicated than a simple dumb monitor. The instructions sheet (yes, one sheet) was just a few unlabeled pictures. At the very least they should have labeled the picture that showed the package contents. The monitor includes 3 cables:

  • HDMI cable – this is what I’m using to connect my video card to the monitor.
  • USB 3 uplink cable – this connects the monitor a PC for all the non-video communication. Touch, USB ports, audio ports, etc…
  • A display port cable that I’m not using

The power cable includes a power brick, rather than just the electrical cable I’m used to. It’s one of those with the brick in the middle so it doesn’t take up extra plug space. There’s also a LAN port that I’m not using. There’s also a micro fiber cloth included for cleaning off those fingerprints.

The build quality of everything appears to be excellent and solidly built. I already had Windows 8 installed when I hooked it up and it worked right away. It just didn’t work perfectly although this proved to be an issue with my AMD video card and not the monitor itself.

Despite the resolution being set at 1920 X 1080 the picture didn’t fill the monitor screen. Worse, the touch points were off. First I went through the tablet calibration, which did fix the touch issue. Bit there was still this large unused border on the screen.

So for the screen issue I first made sure I had the latest monitor drivers. I also installed the Dell software to see if there were any possible settings there. There weren’t. Then I installed the Catalyst software for my AMD video card. I found this setting where the picture was being underscanned by default. So I set it to 0% so it would use the full screen.

AMD Catalyst Overscan Settings

Once I did that I had to reset the tablet calibration back to the default and everything worked fine.

I had considered the articulating stand as an added expense for something I wouldn’t use. I’m glad it wasn’t optional because I think it will be hugely beneficial. I’ve been using it at an angle on my desk.

Articulated Stand (Image from Dell.com)

I find it easy to use as a touch screen while still being easy to see. I’ve been doing a lot of configuration, installations and testing and this position is perfect for that. I may use it in the traditional vertical position when I’m writing or doing other work where the screen is fairly static. Windows 8 is touch friendly and mouse hostile (IMO) so I find it much quicker to use touch to get around. This is all new so my opinion may change over time after more use.

I bought my monitor from Dell but I just checked and Amazon now has the monitor and it costs less than it does from Dell. The one review from Amazon says they shipped the non-touch version of the monitor although that should be easy to resolve (but extremely annoying) as they are different model numbers. If buying from Dell be aware that Dell sells it through different segments, I found it to be cheaper through the “Home & Home Office” channel thanks to $50 instant savings which wasn’t available through the business channels. Like I said, I do like their monitors. But that’s about the only thing about Dell that isn’t frustrating.

I’ve only been using the monitor since Saturday afternoon, but so far I like it and consider it worth the price I paid.

My MacBook Air Trackpad is Ultra Sensitive

MacBook Air image

MacBook Air imageRecently my MacBook Air trackpad became much too sensitive to touch. I was clicking where I didn’t want to click and dragging files all over the place. I was opening and moving browser windows all over the place. Worse, I was dragging folders to unknown places and had to go hunting for them.

It was intermittent, usually after working a while. My initial searches resulted in “your doing it wrong” types of results. I’ve been using the MacBook Air trackpad for months, years if I include my earlier Airs so I knew that wasn’t it. I tried mucking with the settings without changing the issue. Even with tap-to-click off I would click (and drag) while barely touching the trackpad. The problem tended to occur after using the Air for awhile, not right after waking up or rebooting.

I took the usual troubleshooting steps. Logged on under a different user that didn’t start any apps and also logging on a guest. The problem persisted so I didn’t think an OS re-install would fix it. So I’ve been using a wireless mouse recently. That worked OK.

After getting home from dinner today I felt ambitious and did another Google search. This time I came across this Apple Insider forum thread that described the problem and a couple workarounds (posts 13 and 14 in that thread). Sure enough, they worked for me. The problem didn’t occur when I ran on battery or when it was plugged in and I let my left hand touch the MacBook Air next to the trackpad. Neither of these are actually solutions but at least they identified the problem as power or hardware related and not software.

The problem with this type of problem is there may be multiple causes for symptoms there’s a lot of potential solutions. Another work-around I found was to moisten the fingertips. This seemed to work until the fingertips dried up but water and computers don’t seem like a good idea. I also read that others replaced the power supply to resolve the problem. I don’t have a second power supply to try but I’ll try to dig one up for testing. I’ll still have the Apple Store problem, at $80 I don’t want to buy one and if I can’t reproduce the problem in the store I probably can’t get it replaced. Another mentioned the problem was resolved by tightening the screws. I can’t try that either since I don’t have the right screwdriver. Looks like it would cost less than $20 to get one delivered, but it would only be for the MacBook Air and some Toshibas I’ll never own. It’s not like I’m going to open the Air up until its out of warranty (I have Apple Care for it) which is still over two years away.

The problem will be reproducing the problem at the Apple Store so I can get it fixed. On the other hand, I’ve never been a trackpad fan and the mouse is working fine. It’s something I’ll want fixed before AppleCare expires, but if I stick with the mouse it may be awhile.

Western Digital 3TB Caviar Green Drive

Western Digital announced a 3TB external drive awhile back, this week they announce a internal 3TB Caviar Green Drive. While I have  no need for the drive at this time I have to admit I’m curios.

As the reviews I link to at the end mention, there’s a 2.9TB barrier with most systems these days. Western Digital provides a controller board with the disk in order to get around the issue.

The bottom line is, review the pitfalls before spending your money. Or better yet, wait for others to clarify the pitfalls. I have to admit I’m curious and I’m looking for a way to justify buying one.

Some Reviews:

AnandTech

Legit Reviews

Storage Review

New Laptop Joins the Quest: The Choice

Picture of a Dell Inspiron 15RA little over a month ago I decided I wanted to add a laptop to my PC collection. I haven’t had a capable laptop since my Macbook lost an argument with a cup of coffee over a year ago. I’ve had a Netbook since the coffee mishap and a iPad more recently. Neither one gave me the portable computing power I really want, so I decided to look around.

Even a low cost Macbook would be over a grand, so while I didn’t rule absolutely rule it out, it was never a serious consideration.

I had the iPad for web browsing and media consumption and it filled the role pretty well. (Although web surfing suffers due to the lack of flash support.) But a low-end laptop with a bigger screen and keyboard wouldn’t provide enough additional bang for the buck. I’d be using it for web development, basic photo editing (cropping, minor adjustments and such) and general PC applications. Nothing overly intensive except I wanted to be able to run Virtual Machines for web development and other testing. So I listed out my requirements:

  • While I wanted a laptop for it’s portability, I didn’t need it to be small or especially lite. While I would occasionally travel with it, I’d mainly use it around the house, on the patio or the couch.
  • Minimum 14” screen/1260 X 768 resolution – I wanted to be able to put windows up side-by-side, even if they aren’t large windows.
  • A CPU that has hardware virtualization support. So either a Intel CPU with VT-x support or an AMD CPU with AMD-V support.
  • Minimum 4GB of RAM to support the VMs, but more memory would be better. A laptop with a 4GB hardware limit would be unacceptable, even if I got 4GB to start with I may want to upgrade, so expandability to 8GB would be required.
  • A built-in CD/DVD drive, not external. Since I wasn’t looking for the smallest, lightest laptop I wanted a built-in optical drive. I still had enough use for a optical drive and I wanted everything to be self-contained. I don’t really see a need for a burner but I suspect that’s what I’ll get.
  • 500GB Hard Drive – I want the space to be able to have several virtual machines on the local hard drive and that will take disk space. I don’t want to have to worry about keeping an external hard drive nearby.
  • 802.11N Wireless along with a built-in wired Ethernet port.
  • Built-in SDHC card reader. My camera currently uses SDHC cards and I can foresee taking both on trips.
  • A reasonable expectation that the laptop will provide acceptable performance for 3 years.
  • A maximum price of $1000, including any shipping, taxes and other fees.
  • If a back-lit keyboard is available as an option I would get it but it doesn’t rise to the level of “must have”.

I checked both HP and Dell. Both have Employee Purchase Programs (EPP) with my employer so I figured I may get a better price through the EPP. I also checked out other brands at Newegg. I ended up buying a Dell Inspiron 15R. Unlike the typical Dell purchase process, the Inspiron is sold in various packages, rather than being able to pick a chose each piece of hardware. This resulted in differences between the regular Dell website and the EPP website. I bought through the regular website since the EPP site threw in a Blu-Ray drive once I picked the other hardware I wanted. So while a good price for the drive, it was an extra $50 for something I didn’t want and wouldn’t use.

These days I have no particular loyalty to any brand out there and can probably find horror stories about any of them. I went with the Dell because it had better reviews overall than anything else I considered. I also stopped by Best Buy to take a look at one and liked the screen and keyboard.

What I got was:

  • Intel Core i5-450M 2.66Ghz processor (w/VT-x support)
  • 6GB DDR3 RAM (expandable to 8GB)
  • 15.6” Display (1366 X 768). Also listed as 720p
  • ATI Mobility Radeon™ HD5470 video card, 1GB RAM
  • 640GB 5400rpm hard drive.
  • Media Card Reader (7 in 1) which includes SDHC
  • CD/DVD Burner
  • Four USB ports, one of which is a combo eSata port.
  • Windows 7 Premium 64-bit

The PC arrived just before I was going on vacation so I didn’t flatten the install and was left with the crapware. I uninstalled McAfee right away since it was impossible to ignore. I did want Windows 7 Premium x64 anyway so at this point a complete re-install would be more trouble than it’s worth.

I haven’t used the laptop much while I was traveling, so while I have no complaints yet I still haven’t used the PC enough to recommend it. While I like the keyboard I’m not liking the trackpad. The trackpad isn’t a huge issue since I prefer an external mouse anyway, but I find the trackpad buttons hard to press. They have to be pressed just right, otherwise the click is ignored. I’ll write more about it as I use it, but so far the trackpad is my only complaint and I’m happy with the performance.

School of Hard (Drive) Knocks – Part 2

image of people cleaning a hard driveAt the beginning of the month I wrote about my Windows Home Server hard drive problems and at the time I was waiting for WHS to finish removing the bad drive from its storage pool. When I posted the article I was letting Windows Home Server run through the drive removal process while I slept. I had pulled the plug on the bad drive since it brought the server to its knees and was now trying to remove the traces of it from the pool.

When I woke up in the morning the console had crashed and wouldn’t start up. Not Good, but after a quick reboot the console started. The bad drive was still there and part of the pool. There were still some file conflicts reported but with the missing drive that was to be expected. I started up the drive removal wizard again and went off to work.

The console had again gone away by the time I got home. This time it started and the drive was still there. I decided to reboot the server and give the removal wizard one more try since I didn’t have time to do much else. This time when I got back to it the drive had been successfully removed and there weren’t any remaining file conflicts. I gave the WHS once final reboot just to be sure all was well. And it was.

The truth is, I wouldn’t have had the patience to run the wizard three times except for the fact the it was either that or do nothing while I slept and worked. Timing is everything, although in the future I’ll be sure to show some patience.

A few days later one of my 2TB drives finished its pass through a Spinrite level 5 check so I brought the server down again and replaced the drive. Since it was a drive in the internal cage the server needed to be pulled apart to get to it. While a bit tedious pulling apart the server to get the drive it went without a hitch and the server was happy with the new drive.

As it turns out that was one of three Western Digital TB drives manufactured in October of 2009 that  went bad on me. There was the previously mentioned one that arrived DOA. At the time of my previous post that DOA’s replacement had just arrived. While it did spin up it failed to pass Western Digital’s own testing after being a bit flaky in my test PC, so back it went. When I pulled out this bad drive I saw it was manufactured the same month. I have a second drive purchased at the same time that I’ll be pulling to see when it was manufactured and running through a Spinrite test. While it only showed 4 pending bad sectors (compared to hundreds on its mate) I already removed it from the storage pool.

Unfortunately it didn’t hit me that the bad drive was a recent purchase and my delay in pulling it meant I missed the window for a hassle free return to Amazon. So when I get a chance I’ll run Western Digital’s diagnostics on it and if it fails I’ll RMA it, otherwise it will get the Spinrite treatment.

As for the server, I decided I only wanted to make one more trip into that internal drive cage, so it means replacing two 2TB drives at once. I didn’t have the free space to remove both drives from the storage pool so I turned off file duplication on my video files to free up the space. Once that was done I removed both drives from the storage pool. Once of those is one that’s probably manufactured in the same batch as my three bad drives. I’ve got two 2TB drives going through Spinrite level 5 checks now and if the time estimate is correct I should be able to replace the drives on Saturday and turn file duplication back on.

I have five more drives showing a couple bad or pending bad sectors. A couple isn’t necessarily bad if the number doesn’t increase, but I still plan to work my way through them all with a Spinrite level 5 check. Unfortunately level 5 is very time consuming. If I use my test PC (which is slow) it takes about 10 days to do a 2TB drive.

By this weekend my Windows Home Server should be back to full strength and I can use a spare drive to cycle through the testing of the remaining drives. It’ll take awhile, but since the drive testing doesn’t require me to do anything more than swap a disk and bang a few keys every few days it shouldn’t be too bad. What’s the saying? “An ounce of prevention…”

School of Hard (Drive) Knocks

image of people cleaning a hard driveOne of the problems with having a Windows Home Server with 12 hard drives is that hard drives do fail and there’s a dozen chances for that to happen. Add to that the 18TB of data those drives can hold and things are further complicated. The odds are not in my favor and it’s only a matter of time. I’d been thinking about that recently and had just begun looking at ways to monitor the drive health when I came across some health problems while testing out some tools.

I installed a WHS add-in called Home Server Smart that shows the SMART stats from the hard drives. Sure enough, there were a couple bad or pending bad sectors on a couple drives. But all drives have bad sectors and manufacturers plan for it and re-allocate the sectors to some spares. I’ll monitor those drives and if the bad sectors increase I’ll act. But there was one drive with 160 bad sectors. And sure enough, checking the system log showed this drive had a bad block.

Here’s the Home Server Smart screen from today which is up to 171 bad sectors this morning (Click for full size):

HomeServerSmart

Now, in retrospect the right thing to do would have been to remove this disk immediately and get a replacement. But I figured I’d be smart. It was time to get the hard drives under control and test them all. So I pulled out a spare 1TB drive and began running SpinRite at level 4 on it. For 1 TB, this would take an estimated 2 days to complete the testing. My plan was to replace one of the external 2TB drives first and then run SpinRite on that 2TB drive before using it to replace the problem drive. Naturally the problem drive was internal and inside a drive cage that would require removal to get at the drive. So the fewer times into the machine the better. But that assumed the drive lasted. I figured the problem wasn’t new, just newly noticed.

That was a couple days ago and I was monitoring the drive since then. There weren’t any new bad sectors the first couple of days. I felt confident because I had file duplication on so one drive failure would lose data. I also had full recent backups of everything. I replaced the 2GB external drive and began running SpinRite on the freed up 2TB drive. I was almost home free.

Then last night things began to go very, very wrong. Streaming video or file copies would stop for no apparent reason. No heavy disk usage, no heavy CPU load, no high memory usage. Into Home Server Smart again and the bad sectors are up to 176. So I immediately  began the drive removal process on that drive.

It was slow. Very slow. Painfully slow. 1GB per hour slow. I didn’t have 1,400+ hours for it to go through the drive removal process. But it was late so I decided to give it the night to see if it improved. I woke up to find it made no real progress. So I used the Shutdown command (since I couldn’t use the WHS console to do it) and powered off the server and powered it on. I figured drive duplication would save me from losing files. Although my fear was some corrupt data that would go unnoticed for months.

After the startup I began the drive remove again. After giving it the day while I was at work it was faster but not by much.  At the current rate it would take another 6 days to remove the drive. So I again shut it down. Then I went inside and pulled the drive cable so it would go missing.

When the server came back up it told me the drive was missing so it got that part right. I started the drive removal process again. It’s been running several hours now. The progress bar has moved. Because since there’s no actual data I can’t tell how far along it is. But perfmon does show some heavy read/write drive activity that looks like file copies. So I’m going to be patient. With the drive gone I now have some files that aren’t duplicated. I figure it’s duplicating or verifying those files. A normal drive removal would last overnight for this much data so I figure I need to wait until morning at the least. While I have them backed up I’d hate to have to figure out which ones were lost if they get corrupted so I’ll let WHS do its thing for awhile..

Lessons Learned (the important ones):

  1. Test all drives before installing them. The problem drive is one of the new ones. Whether SpinRite would have caught the problem or not is unknown since it took a couple weeks to manifest itself, but as of now any new drive gets SpinRite Level 5 before it goes into the server (or my PCs for that matter). I’d been lazy and impatient in the past. I’d go through the drive removal process the night before the new drive was due to arrive and slap the new one in as soon as it arrived. No more.
  2. Write down the drive serial numbers (and the specific model numbers). Somewhere along the line my drive mappings got messed up. When I thought I was removing the drive from external bay 4 I was actually removing the one from Bay 3. So when I rebooted I got a drive missing error. Luckily that was easily fixed by popping the drive back in. Still, it’s easily avoidable as the Disk Management add-in I use shows drive model and serial numbers (at least for most drives).
  3. Having Windows Home Server offline for drive removals really sucks. Timing wise this wasn’t too bad because I haven’t needed the files on it (although if it was online I’d be streaming video now). But the server has basically been offline since Sunday night.
  4. Hard Drives hate me at the moment. A 2TB drive I ordered for another project, but was going to use as a replacement, arrived DOA on Thursday and it’s replacement didn’t arrive until today. I can’t remember the last time I got a drive that was literally DOA and wouldn’t even spin up when I pulled it out of the box. Hopefully is just one of those things and not a manufacturing issue with a batch of them. The replacement is still in its unopened antistatic bag.
  5. If a hard drive seems to be going bad pull it immediately. Either replace it or run diagnostics on it. I left the drive in because I figured the bad sectors weren’t new. I figured I’d “be smart” and minimize the effort and time opening up the server case. I waited until there were new bad sectors but by then I was already in trouble.
  6. It’s not a new lesson but it reinforces my current beliefs. Windows Home Server file duplication is a good thing. Backups are a good thing. File duplication is not a backup.

For more information about the Home Server Smart Add-in you can see the reviews at HomeServerLand or We Got Served. No sense me repeating their review. I’ll just add my endorsement of the plug in. It’s a simple but well designed plug-in that does it’s thing without getting in the way. The plug-in is free but donations are accepted. I threw a small donation their way to encourage these types of add-ins.

Read the conclusion to my hard drive problems here.

1.5TB Drives at 1TB Drive Prices

I noticed that the Seagate 1.5TB Barracuda drives have hit NewEgg and are priced at $190 with free shipping. That’s less than 13¢/GB. The 1TB Seagate drive is priced at $140 which is 14¢/GB making the new 1.5TB drives a better per gigabyte value. I haven’t bought one but I as shocked to see the new technology at a reasonable price. I realize I have a problem, because while I don’t need the space I want one of these drives.

The OS Quest Trail Log #24: Hardware and Software Updates Edition

Another busy week on the OS Quest but a lot of it felt like running in place due to the continued onslaught of software updates. The big updates, at least based on size and time, were OS X 10.5.2 and the follow-up Leopard Graphics Update. There were two other big updates, based on the software and features delivered, Aperture 2 and Apple TV Take 2. There were also the minor updates – Microsoft Patch Tuesday, a minor update for Yojimbo, and iLife ’08 update.

In among these updates I moved my dormant Spam Chronicles site to be hosted as a WordPress.com blog and had my first full week with my new inkjet printer.

Canon Pixma iP3500 Photo Printer

I’ve been running the Canon Pixma iP3500 Photo Printer for a little over a week. I bought it at Amazon for $57 delivered so I can’t complain about the price. That’s barely more than the cost of the included ink, which may say more about ink prices than the printer price. It’s a basic printer in every sense of the word. There’s no card slots or networking connections.

One feature I really like is the two paper feeds. There’s a rear feed that folds out from the printer and can handle any paper type. There’s also a front feed that’s just below the output. The front feed can only be used with plain/regular paper because the paper path has to bend around a roller. I set the driver to print from the front whenever plain paper is selected and keep about 80 sheets in the feed (the manual says 100 sheets can be fit there). In rare cases where I want another paper type I can put it in the rear feed and still have plain paper available.

Another nice feature is the auto on/off. The printer will power itself on when a print job is sent and will power off after 5 minutes of inactivity. The power off timer is configurable as 5, 10, 15, 30 or 60 minutes.

Because the printer is not within reach of my desk I really appreciate these two features.

When the printer is actually printing it’s pretty quiet, but it’s noisy when the paper is first fed into the printer or when it’s charging the ink. There is a quiet mode but a didn’t notice a difference when it was enabled. Print speed is very good.

Some people complained about jamming but I haven’t experienced any problems yet, with my largest document topping out at 12 pages.

I would call the print quality very good for a general purpose printer. The test photos I printed weren’t a good as the output from my Epson, but this printer is a fraction of the cost. The printer uses four inks, black, cyan, magenta and yellow. CNet has a full review and rates the printer a “7.4 – very good”

Software Updates

Since getting all my Macs on OS X 10.5.2 things have been a bit more stable. In the end I had to recreate the local iDisk on each of my Macs just like I had to on my iMac.

I did have a problem with SuperDuper on my iMac after the 10.5.2 upgrade. The scheduled updates were failing when it got to one of my WHS shares (which it had always correctly ignored in the past). But then there were other problems, such as not being able to change the target or source drives. The solution to the last one was to reboot my iMac and then I could do a manual clone. By the time a scheduled update rolled around I had rebuilt my Windows Home Server so it’s hard to say whether the reboot or the rebuild fixed the original problem.

Apple TV Take 2 still seems nice. I like the way both the content on my iMac and content local to the Apple TV is mixed together in the menus. I did notice some slowness in Apple TV performance in the menus. Sometimes it’s a bit slow organizing the podcasts or tv shows which can be confusing as things appear multiple times until they’re organized. Scrolling though content can also be slow at times as it tries to load the preview picture. This causes missed clicks which can be annoying. They also seem to put store content ahead of my own content (in menus) which struck me as a bit self-serving at first. But the more I thought about it maybe it may make sense for the way people will use the device – to find rentals and online content.

I haven’t installed Aperture 2 yet but I’m looking forward to diving into it. I’m thinking of starting over with an empty library and going through Apple’s video tutorials. Since I never really got into the old Aperture it’s not a lot of rework.

Frustrations

My main frustration this week was with my Windows Home Server. I was having two very annoying problems:

  1. It would power itself off randomly. Nothing in the event logs other than the typical “Previous shutdown was unexpected” message. It happened occasionally for the last couple of weeks. Never when I was using it and usually overnight. Then it recently became more common with two occurrences on Saturday alone.
  2. My Macs were having problems connecting using IDs/Passwords saved in the keychain. I actually considered this more of a OS X keychain problem introduced by by 10.5.2 but there’s a slight chance it was WHS.

Possibly related to the second problem, the WHS name matched my .Mac ID. While I don’t really think this would cause any problems renaming the WHS would eliminate it as a potential problem. It would also allow me to use a less confusing, more appropriate server name.

So I Saturday I did a factory reset on my HP EX475 Windows Home Server. This wiped out everything (user IDs, data, etc…) on the server. I didn’t have much unique data on it so saving the data wasn’t a problem. Rather than take half-steps to troubleshoot the problem I went right to the “rebuild everything” solution. I’m considering upgrading the memory (to allow more add-ins) which will probably void the warranty (at least complicate things) so if there are hardware problems I want to identify them now and HP will probably require a factory reset before replacing the box. This wasn’t too bad, it took about 90 minutes to do the rebuild, excluding the time needed to copy my 150GB media library back to the server.

The Upcoming Week & Beyond

The aforementioned Windows Home Server upgrade will hopefully take place next weekend if the parts arrive. I’ve ordered memory and two 500GB hard drives to max out the internal bays. I’m also trying to figure out how to re-organize the ever growing size of my files and still have good backups. My 500GB iMac disk is over 80% full and it’s growing.

I hope to get back on track building the Ubuntu server but I just haven’t had a block of time big enough to concentrate on it. Didn’t I say this last week?

That’s all for this week’s Trail Log.